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Divina Alexiou
In the 18th century, in Parma, Italia, there was fine printer and typographer named Giambattista Bodoni -- his work was called by many of his time and since, as the exemplar of sophistication in design. Beautiful books, exquisite typefaces, amazing sense of airiness and restraint. The type of our masthead is custom designed and hand-drawn by Tim Girvin and his team in NYC | Seattle, creating a perfection on the classics from centuries past, to a new revised and refined titling treatment -- just for us! Sniffapalooza Magazine Banner by Tim Girvin. Sniffapalooza logo/banner: Bond No. 9 is a registered trademark of Laurice & Co. ©2008
The last issue has been archived in "Interviews", Most Recent Articles, Natural Perfumers Page & Fragrance Reviews Vol 4.
If you have not seen Part One, Two and Part Three of the exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Fragrance and the Arts Series by Michelyn Camen, you can view here.
November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews by Michelyn Camen, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9 and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO by Michelyn Camen. We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland by Michelyn Camen and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice by Felicia M. Hazzard. We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents By Michelyn Camen, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis By Michelyn Camen. We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide By Michelyn Camen, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest" by Michelyn Camen, Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance By Felicia M. Hazzard, UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun by Michelyn Camen and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement! THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
by Michelyn Camen
Sniffapalooza Magazine and Michelyn Camen interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran. The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto and Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique. Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question: “What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Serge Lutens
Laurice Rahmé
Frederic Malle
Jean Claude Ellena
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective. In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, By Michelyn Camen,we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" by Michelyn Camen. We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" By: Felicia M. Hazzard and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok. We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.
January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.
Camille Goutal
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante By Michelyn Camen, Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen. We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review By Felicia M. Hazzard, Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit By Michelyn Camen, Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber by Michelyn Camen.
February 1, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive:
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'. Michelyn Camen interviewsSymine Salimpour, Founder and Owner of Hors Là Monde as she also introduces Lady Shiloh, Real Men Wear Perles...by Michael Davis and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Mercedes Ganon of Parfums Mercedes Jus D’ Amour.
We feature Crazylibellule and the Poppies L’eau de Crazy Cologne, Diptyque opens new a boutique in New York City with exclusive Diptyque Roses Candle and you can Take an Olfactive Journey with Sue Phillips of Scenterprises/Perfume Studio. We offer to our readers Ginestet: Gets Sweeter With Time; The History, The Fragrance, The Aroma By Felicia M. Hazzard, Love Notes By Michelyn Camen, Kingsbury Fragrances Twilight Rose review By Raphaella Barkley, Ron Robinson introduces Pearl Eau De Parfum by Apothia Los Angeles and Ajne offers us Aphrodite honoring The Goddess of Love and for the men; Adonis. We close with The Naturals: Sniffapalooza Magazines Interview with Natural Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes.
Mercedes Ganon
Symine Salimpour
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back By Michelyn Camen, Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead, Bringing Sexy Back By Michelyn Camen, a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices by Michelyn Camen and Michael W. Davis and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
Aurélien Guichard
Thierry Wasser
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto and Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances. The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", Michelyn Camen introduces us to a new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, Michelyn Camen's new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris By Michelyn Camen and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries By Michelyn Camen, we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.
Marie-Helene Rogeon
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" By Michelyn Camen, we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed by Michelyn Camen, "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner, Yael Alkalay by Michelyn Camen.
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places By Felicia M. Hazzard, a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
Jean Claude Ellena
Monsieur Olivier and Erwin Creed
March 1, 2009
In this issue we feature the upcoming Sniffapalooza Fragrance Fair in Germany on
March 20th - 22nd, 2009 in Düsseldorf and Cologne Germany, upcoming event PERFUME EXPO AMERICA 2009 in New York City, Bond No. 9 Announces Bottle Design Contest, Orange Blossom-The Other White Flower By Michelyn Camen, New fragrance release: Burren Perfumery, Over 35 years of luck in Ireland By Felicia M. Hazzard and we feature Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times By Michelyn Camen.
We also feature information about C-THRU, a new fragrance collection for young women, new fragrance release Fleur d’ Amour by Sylvie Beljanski, we give a warm welcome to new contributor Alisa Shorago with her Kristen Michèle Parfumeur’s Épice Orientale Fragrance Review, new fragrance Diesel For Life Unlimited, Estée Lauder introduces Bronze Goddess Fragrance, Beauty, Skincare and Lip Gloss Collection, Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz adds three new 'Aroma-Color' perfumes to Parfums des Beaux Arts Limited Edition Collection called TRUE COLORS and Regal, Remarkable and Romantic, The Reputation of Espiègle by Guepard By Felicia M. Hazzard. We also feature Raphaella's Roses Part Two and Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Natural Perfumer Persephenie.
February 12, 2009
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Perfumer Kristen Michèle of Kristen Michèle Parfumeur, an in-depth article about melon in fragrances called "Niche Meloncholy" By Elena Vosnaki, upcoming Guerlain releases, Love the Key to Life by Michelyn Camen and Parfums des Beaux Arts: A Gallery of Masterpieces featuring Dawn Spencer Hurwitz By Felicia M. Hazzard.
We also feature Raphaella's Roses, Ormonde Jayne now offers initial engraved bottles, online boutique Mio Mia is offering a free sample offer; Estée Lauder shows us Valentine’s Day Gifts, Viva La Ajne hits Las Vegas and Sniffapalooza Magazine features "The Naturals" with an interview with Julie Longyear of Irie Star/Blissoma.
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'.
Kristen Michèle
Color Me!
Design Me!
Dream Me!
Bond No. 9 Me
Baby!
March 15, 2009
Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, a Spectacular Fragrant Feast!
In this special Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, we feature four breaking news items. Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusives... Turtle Bay SPAfumerie will introduce the re-launch of Futur de Robert Piguet during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling and we include a special note from Joe Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive; NEW Amouage Ubar will be unveiled during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling April 4 and 5th, 2009 at Bergdorf Goodman's and Aedes De Venustas. Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director and David Crickmore, CEO of Amouage will be there with Marlena Egan from EM Distribution to introduce the fragrance to Sniffapalooza members.
Aedes De Venustas to launch the newest fragrance Amouage Ubar as well as the new Molinard 160 with special guest; Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard and Sabine Hernandez. Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard will attend both Henri Bendel and Aedes De Venustas to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance. 160 The New Molinard Fragrance will be showcased in "avant-premiere' during the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Event, April 4th, 2009 and will be released this summer.
In this issue, we feature an Interview with Roberto Ferreira from the House of Creed that include Creed Reviews For The Men by Christopher Voigt and Mark David Boberick and Reviews For Women, Real Men Wear...Lavender featuring Creed Royal Scottish Lavender by Michael W. Davis, we feature a very special DSH Perfume: The Road Less Traveled And What You Can Find There By Christine Lewandowski with comments by Sofia Lewandowski. We continue with a Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Raphaella with Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as she talks about fragrance and inspiration. We feature the itinerary/schedule of events for the upcoming Sniffapalooza Spring Fling in New York City, Pretty in the City; The Paradox of Pretty By Michelyn Camen, Bond No. 9 Astor Place:Mesmerizing New Eau de Parfum which includes the exclusive news of the Pre-Sniff Party of the new Bond No. 9 Astor Place at Bond No. 9 during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling! We offer Bond No. 9 Fragrance Reviews of Brooklyn and Boca By Kathy Patterson and we are proud to feature the very beautiful Lisa Hoffman: Wife, Mother and Perfumer with a Mission, A Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Felicia M. Hazzard.
Read about KILIAN’S latest temptation, travel sprays for men and women, Hanae Mori Parfums Contest Winner, Guerlain new releases, Aedes De Venustas newest releases, GREENWITCH: In Honor to the White Lady, A Green Chypre Perfume By Roxana Villa, upcoming event at Turtle Bay SPAfumerie, review of Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage by Diane Artzberger, ONDE By Michelyn Camen, Gump's San Francisco NEW fragrance called Baroque Pearl, SCENTS FOR THE MIND: The Attars of Asia By John E Smith and finally end with Celebrity Fragrant Watch!
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Kilian Hennessy
All rights reserved 2006-2009. All content belongs to Sniffapalooza Magazine. All articles by individual writers and contributors, understand and agree that each article that is accepted by the Editor for publication; becomes the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for the sole purpose of publication for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Articles may be archived for permanent use on the web site for Sniffapalooza Magazine and for future issues. All articles remain the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for display purposes only.
April 15, 2009
In this special issue, we feature The Perfume of the Wind: An Interview With Jean-Claude Ellena with an Introduction by Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen.
We also feature Niche, Nicher, Nichest: In Two Verses featuring interviews with Ralf Schwieger, Andy Tauer, Antonia Bellanca, Ron Robinson, Ulrich Lang, Gerald Ghislain, Beth Terry, Maria McElroy and Liz Zorn,
By Michelyn Camen, Roxana Villa’s Vespertina, An Illuminated Perfume by Trish Vawter and Hilde Soliani Parfums: A Collection That Commands The Spotlight By Felicia M. Hazzard.
We feature a new fragrance review; Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal By Diane Artzberger, Sue Phillips and Bloomingdale's Presents Exclusive Custom Perfume Event at Roosevelt Field, NY, SNIFFAPALOOZA UND DIE 1. DEUTSCHE DUFTMESSE IN DÜSSELDORF in German or Sniffapalooza and the First German Fragrance Fair in Dusseldorf By Manuela Pfannes-Völkel, Scents in the City: Fragrance: The Plaza Beauty Store by Warren Tricomi By Michelyn Camen and we close with Living Perfume: The Natural Alchemy of Mandy Aftel at Henri Bendel.
Jean-Claude Ellena
May 1, 2009
The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced the
Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog. Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog over selections from perfume blogs from around the country! In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine you can NOW VOTE in the FiFi Awards "Favorite Fragrances of 2009" in all Top 8 categories for men and women. The Fragrance Foundation presents the famous FiFi Awards, the 'Oscars' of the fragrance industry.
We also feature "Perfumes in Dialogue with One Another" By Elena Vosnaki, "London Calling; Czech and Speake No. 88 & Frankincense and Myrrh" Fragrance Reviews For The Men by Mark David Boberick, "Fracas; For The Woman Who's Smokin' Hot" By Suzanne Keller, Ormonde Jayne Special Sniffapalooza Magazine Champaca Offer, "Calè Fragranze d'Autore; Perfume: The Embodiment of a Story" By Bettina d'Onofrio, Bond-No. 9 offers a Mother’s Day Raffle, Verveine by Molinard offers a Mother's Day Charity Event with Sniffapalooza, "Cherry Blossom; The Peace And Quiet Of An Earthly Existence" By Felicia M. Hazzard, Diptyque’s New Fragrance L’Eau de Tarocco and osMoz.com offers a collection of olfactory exploration kits called "Les coulisses du parfum". We close this issue with "Raphaella's Roses" Part Three.
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the
TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog!
The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced the Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog. Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog over selections from perfume blogs from around the country! The Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage Blog category is an historic and appreciative gesture on the part of The Fragrance Foundation for the quality work on online fragrance blog sites, legitimizing them as editorial vehicles. If you have not seen our two "Top Five" articles that the Fifi panalists chose, you can view the full articles here in their entirety. This is truly a honor for us.
Congratulations to Elena Vosnaki and Nathan Branch for catapulting Sniffapalooza Magazine into the FiFi Award Nominations that were chosen for this historical award nomination. A sincere heartfelt thanks to the Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards. See all the nominations Fifi Awards here at www.fifiawards.org.
Sniffapalooza Magazine
September 8, 2009
In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine we feature an in-depth and fascinating Interview with Marian Bendeth; Global Fragrance Expert and owner of Sixth Scents, a must read for any perfumista or anyone interested in the industry. In this interview, you will be able to read and explore thoughts that no one has ever discussed on the Internet or anywhere. It is truly groundbreaking and we welcome Marian Bendeth with utmost respect for her lifelong and considerable knowledge.
We welcome a new contributor/fragrance writer and I am proud to announce, a future collaboration with Cristiane Gonçalves from Brazil who will also be featuring exclusive upcoming interviews with international Perfumers and exclusive reviews of fragrances for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Cristiane Gonçalves starts this issue with a review of "Gump’s Baroque Pearl: The Birth Of A Fragrant Jewel " with a mini-interview with award-winning Master Perfumer Olivier Gillotin from the legendary fragrance house of Givaudan.
Next, we feature upcoming “Arabian Nights” PURE OUD by Kilian and "London Sniffapalooza" by Divina Alexiou who will also be joining Sniffapalooza Magazine. To end summer, we offer two beautiful reviews of "An Eclispe of Beauty Over Darkness"; Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums UNE ROSE and "A Door to Another World; Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle by contributor Suzanne Keller and new fragrance, L’Humaniste for men by P. Frapin & Cie. We introduce the new Yves Rocher Tendre Jasmin and Sniffapalooza Magazine is the first to announce the sneak peak of Fragrant Memories: Introducing Bare Skin, the first fragrance from Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries from CEO of Bare Escentuals & Bare Minerals.
June 24, 2009
In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine we feature an interview with Roja Dove By Diane Schofield from London, Capri and Carthusia: An Awakening And Journey Of The Senses By Joanne Mooney, In Fiore's Fleurs Blanches and Rose Noir; Fragrance Review By Trish Vawter, Andy Tauer Perfumes announces his new Mémorables Une rose chyprée, Edelweiss; A Fragrance Review by Victoria Austin, Persona by Profumo.it/ La Via del Profumo and Lentisque by 06130 Zéro Six Cent-Trente Reviews by Elena Vosnaki, Neil Morris Fragrances has ten new scents from his Vault Fragrance line and offers a special discount and we offer Back to "Haute Parfumerie“ Guerlain By Emmanuelle Pagès.
Avery Gilbert's book "What The Nose Knows" was nominated for the Royal Society Prize for Science Books, Bond No. 9 needs your help in voting now to help choose the final bottle of "Brooklyn" and we feature new fragrances such as Bath & Body Works® Signature Collection, White Citrus and Butterfly Flower, C.O. BIGELOW’S new Lemon Blends and Lemon Eau de Parfum, New Fragrance “VV Platinum” by Roberto Verino and NEW Fragrances KISS by J. Del Pozo, TOUS IN HEAVEN HER, TOUS IN HEAVEN HIM and Estée Lauder Introduces the new Pure White Linen Pink Coral.
A very special welcome to our new contributors as well as our regular writers!
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Raphaella Brescia Barkley
Editor In Chief of Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine was founded and created by Raphaella Brescia Barkley out of love and passion of fragrance.
She formed the popular international on-line fragrance site in early 2006 after joining the Sniffapalooza organization in 2005.
Under her direction as Editor In Chief, Sniffapalooza Magazine's contributors garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE of The Fragrance Foundation
and the 2009 Fifi Awards finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog over selections from perfume blogs
from around the country. The Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage Blog category is an historic and appreciative gesture on the part of The Fragrance Foundation for the quality work on online fragrance blog sites, legitimizing some as editorial vehicles. To see the Top Five, view here.
A former model, beauty queen and professional ballet dancer, Ms. Barkley also has a business background that includes experience in marketing,
fundraising and event management. She served as Artistic and Executive Director for two successful major arts organizations; working
with international ballet super stars with primary responsibility for all event productions. She was also responsible for all fund raising/grant
writing in excess of $500,000 and for all event management, including overseeing 100 volunteers. Raphaella is also a former teacher who
owned three studios; was artistic director of two professional ballet companies and a choreographer who directed musicals, television
commercials and was personal manager to dancers from Alvin Ailey American Dance Theatre. After retiring from the performing arts world,
she became the General Manager of a boutique historical hotel in a ski-resort and was involved in animal rescue for many years.
Passionately involved in fragrance, Raphaella has spent the past few years researching and studying fragrance before joining Sniffapalooza.
She currently has a fragrance library of around 400 fragrances of which she blames her grandmother. View "Couer de Fleur...Heart of the Flower" here.
After discovering Creed, Bond No. 9, Guerlain, Caron and many truly artistic niche fragrances, Raphaella gave away all of her "mass commercial" fragrances to her little sister. Other interests involve collecting Raphaella's Roses and rose fragrances. She is currently also in the process of re-discovering classic and iconic fragrances, mass luxury fragrances as well as certain commercial fragrances and wishes her little sister would give back all her old perfumes.
Raphaella is also the new Contributor for Beauty Fashion Magazine, a national industry beauty magazine featuring her new column,
Raphaella believes that fragrance is an art form, magical and healing. She still stops to smell the roses.
Sniffapalooza Magazine is independently owned and operated by Raphaella Barkley.
Marian, first, let me congratulate you on winning the 2009 Canadian Fragrance Awards; Best Media Editorial Awards for your article on Kilian Hennessey titled "II Fragrance Delecto"-The Scented Mask of Kilian Hennessy that was published on Basenotes. What an honor, how did this feel?
MB: Thank you Raphaella. Well, winning my first media Award was a
shock as I really see myself more as a fragrance correspondent or
interpreter of scents. When I won my second, it was another unexpected
thrill and now winning my third Awards with Kilian and Basenotes, I feel a
lot more confident but I still have a lot to learn. Kilian was most generous
with his time and answers and we share this Award with him.
It is true that at the age of three your grandmother gave you a bottle
of 4711 Perfume and by the age of 4 and a half, you bought a
miniature of L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci?
MB: Yes! Something clicked inside and I became an obsessed child that
grew into an obsessed adult! I was told that I cared nothing for dollies
or toys. From that day forward, every penny has been spent
on perfume blends and their impact.
You are a connoisseur and a collector of rare blends, please tell us
about this.
MB: Well, my passion is to find, collect, own and wear rare blends with
rare ingredients that I know will suit my personal body chemistry and reflect
my personal tastes. Being discerning with scent is really no different than
having a “style”. Knowing yourself and the many aspects of who we are
and how we wish to be perceived, is always fun. I do this in my career
with the general public; create a fragrance wardrobe that reflects the
customer’s tastes. I would rather see their name on their bottles than the
other way around. Although I do represent the fragrance industry as a whole,
I am a consumer advocate.
Which fragrances have been most important in your life?
MB: It would require big dentures to bite off that question. Each and
every scent is a bookmark in my life dating back to the age of three.
For example, Madame Rochas is travelling back to London,
England to visit my family. J’ai Ose – Guy La Roche is celebrating
a big Birthday, Lanvin’s Arpège is my Mother tucking me in at night.
Yardley’s Leather is my father peering at me over his nightly paper
while I babbleon and he looks at me with a flustered look. There are
iterally thousands of scents that have very poignant memories in my life.
Are there any new upcoming scents for 2009 that interest you personally?
MB: In my work, I have to be as open as humanly possible to all upcoming scents. What I like/love personally has no bearing when it comes to my client’s tastes and body chemistry. As they come into my possession, I have to “date” them, like a new relationship, get to know their characteristics, foilables,
and strengths over a period of time and then become a fragrance broker between my clients’ tastes, lifestyle and chemistry. There are many that I do like coming up, some I have signed an embargo agreement that I cannot publicly mention until launch date. I love all scents! New and vintage! I am not a slave to trends, which is too limiting for me.
"Fragrance makes the loudest impact on a subliminal level.”- Marian Bendeth
What do you really think of so many launches each year? Is there room for everyone to survive?
MB: The proliferation of flanker brands has Tsunamied our shelves to packed capacity. Not unlike
British Radio stations, the cream will always rise to the top though because it is what the
customer prefers and purchases that will determine longevity for a brand. We are now seeing
many kinds of perfumes now from Niche to Natural and Esoteric too. Some have resurfaced
such as Feminitè du Bois (Serge Lutens) after public requests. We are still in an Economic
crisis though and times are not as generous as they used to be.
Years ago, you were asked “If you could bring back one discontinued fragrance,
which would it be and why?” and you answered “I would love to smell the original
"Crêpe de Chine" by Milot and "Green Water" by Jacques Fath.
Does this still apply today? Any new thoughts?
MB: Well, I found my reformulated Green Water but would also love to smell some vintage
scents such as Pretexte, Le Dandy,Pastorale de Renoir or the original formulations for
Balmain’s Vent Vert, Diorama, and Charles Blair – don’t get me started!!
Marian, I read that you love the “idea of fragrance being motivational and inspirational”.
Please talk to us about the “rhythm and flow” of fragrance and its possible correlation
with music.
MB: I love to use this analogy when describing scents. You are having friends over for a party.
The kind of music on yourIPod or CD player will set the tone for the party. Rock music might
say “heh, come sit on my kitchen counter and kick back with some beer – straight from the bottle.
Jazz – feel sophisticated, cool and laid back. Classical might say, look at my refined table
with matching china, candles and elegant lighting. In terms of fragrance, you are the party
and your fragrance is your moving background music. Your scent sets the tone for how you
wish others to feel about you in your space. Your fragrances have a flow from beginning to
the last drop on your skin. How you connect emotionally with your scent and how it affects
your psyche makes all the difference between the words “nice” and “knee-dropping”.
You have dedicated most of your formative years in the fragrance industry and for
the past twenty-five years as a Fragrance Expert you have ascertained the differences
in body chemistry. Talk to us about body chemistry and why it does exist.
I understand that this topic is your specialty as well and is highly controversial.
MB: Each of us possesses body chemistry that is as significant as DNA. Every single person on the
planet wears their fragrances with slight or severe degrees of differences. There are many factors that
can affect this such as diet, PH balance, etc. It has been my mission to smell as many different kind of skins and scents – well over 4 million wrists and counting, and anyone who disagrees with this is not being realistic. There can be huge and disparate differences from one person to the next. Let’s face it, if someone in the industry had to create scents based on these facts, it could be very frustrating to please everyone’s tastes so they must create scents that hopefully hit their targets in each Country.
In terms of body chemistry, I cannot reveal how my formulation is created publicly, and I could never train someone to do my work. It is part research based on hundreds of thousands of consultations with the fragrance public, part intuitive and mostly experience fine-tuning my nose to pick up specific notes or accords with different body chemistries.
Marian, what is a Fragrance Expert and what do you do exactly? There also seems to be a definite job description to each title that you have-how do you separate it all?
Marian Bendeth, accepting the 2009 Canadian Fragrance Awards; Best Media Editorial Awards
"The pursuit of fragrance is merely humanity coveting
and cloaking ourselves in the very best of nature". - Marian Bendeth
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Interview with Marian Bendeth
Global Fragrance Expert
and owner of Sixth Scents
Marian Bendeth is President of Sixth Scents and is a Global Fragrance Expert and consultant to many top perfume houses. She is truly a pioneer in the fragrance consulting industry. She is the first person anywhere in the world to provide the public and perfume houses with personalized fragrance wardrobing consultations based on body chemistry, psychology, fashion sense, environment and lifestyle as well as psychological profiling on over 2,000 plus fragrances. Since entering into the fragrance industry in 1983, and opening Sixth Scents in 1989, Bendeth can still claim this exclusive role. She is the only one in the world to provide direct consulting to everyone involved in the fragrance industry from Perfumers, Fragrance and Flavour Houses, Retailers, Vendors, Distributors, Buyers, Marketers, Trainers, the Media and the General Public. Marian Bendeth truly has a rare business and a rare gift.
It is my honor to interview and introduce a dear friend as well; someone that I consider “the real deal” in the fragrance industry. Not only is she highly respected in the fragrance industry, she is extremely knowledgeable about fragrance and has a formidable amount of friends and influence in the industry. On a deeply personal note, Marian is the most humble woman I have ever met and she has changed the way that I view fragrance.
I also love what she states about the blogging industry. You can find more information on Marian Bendeth here, as well as links to her various award-winning articles. - RB
“Fragrance should never be worn like a thick scented choker, where the scent emanates from the neck in strong blasts like a foghorn!
Rather, it should sparkle like twinkling stars, where small bursts disperse here and there; they elude us, pique our curiosity and make us want more.”
–Marian Bendeth
August 20, 2009
In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine we feature "Scents for a Sultry Summer"
By Elena Vosnaki, we introduce the new Creed Acqua Fiorentina, Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Success is a Job in New York, Bond No. 9 Perfume, the new Bond No. 9 Harrods for Him and Her as well as the Harrods Swarovski Limited Edition. We feature the new Estée Lauder Private Collection JASMINE WHITE MOSS, the new Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile, new fragrance from designer JOSIE NATORI, Giorgio Armani IDOLE d’Armani fragrance review by Emmanuelle Pagès, Jovoy Custom Perfume Experience at PXA By Diane Artzberger, Profumi del Forte Review By Diane Artzberger and new fragrance QUEEN by Queen Latifah. We are pleased to present an Interview with Perfumer Lissa Liggett of LISSA LIGGETT Perfumes, Hanae Mori Parfums support of "Pink Initiatives" this Fall, the 8th scent of “L’Oeuvre Noire” Back To Black By Kilian, new Fragrance from Parfums DelRae Mythique and a link to view my new column in Beauty Fashion Magazine called "San Francisco Beat". We will be gearing up for Fall soon and will feature many upcoming reviews and interviews.
Marian Bendeth and her company, Sixth Scents consults on a 360 degree level with all aspects of the fragrance industry. She is a Judge on three Fragrance Award Shows; wrote the Accredited Perfumery course for Canada; was a guest of the French Government for twice touring the perfumery regions of France; appeared as a Guest Speaker at the American Society of Perfumers and is recognized globally for her contributions to the industry. She is a Fragrance journalist and is also interviewed by the international media on fragrance-related stories, television documentaries on scent, working with perfumers, Fragrance and Flavour Houses, Guest lecturer, trainer, writer and Judge. Winner of three Best Media Editorial Awards with Basenotes: 2007, 2008 & 2009 at the Canadian Fragrance Awards. She has also provided perfume training to: Buyers, Retailers, Vendors and private industry professionals. Bendeth also offers Special Appearances as Guest Lecturer for: Parfums Hermes, Chanel, Jean Patou, Narciso Rodriguez, Sisely, Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gwen Stefani, Calvin Klein, Kilian Hennessey, Etat Libre d’Orange, Juliette Has a Gun amongst many others. Ms. Bendeth contributed to two fragrance books and has been featured on multiple International television, radio, newspaper, magazine, online sites and perfume documentaries as a Global Fragrance Expert.
Sixth Scents currently consults with over 1500 Luxe, Niche and “masstige” fragrances and represents over 90 Global reputable Fragrance Distributors. She recently won her third Canadian Fragrance Award with Basenotes.net for her article on Kilian Hennessey titled "II Fragrance Delecto"-The Scented Mask of Kilian Hennessy which was published by Basenotes and I have included the link here to her other numerous articles on Basenotes.com. You can also view more on the Canadian Fragrance Awards here where Marian Bendeth was also a finalist for her outstanding article titled "Filling the Gilded Shoes of Guerlain"; an interview with new Guerlain Perfumer Thierry Wasser. Visit Sixth Scents and Marian Bendeth website here.
President, Emeritus, Annette Green (Right) with Marian Bendeth sniffing........
MB: Oh, I always dread that question. Many Fragrance Experts have different domains that they specialize in. I originally pioneered ‘Sixth Scents” with two services. I feel I have a “sixth sense” in knowing which fragrances suit people. I had been working with many fragrance houses as well as collecting and researching blends since a young age. This naturally snowballed into so many different areas. I guess you could call me a Swiss Army Knife in the world of Perfumery. What is wonderful is that one feeds into the other.
I have to be connected in all areas to be connected to the fragrance industry. I have to listen to salespeople to understand what areas they require which helps me in my Training seminars. I need to keep up-to-date to keep up when I am being interviewed by journalists. Working with
Perfumers gives them a better understanding of the fragrance consumer and vice-versa. Separating them all is actually quite easy. I have to wear many hats as an Expert but never lose sight of the magic of perfumery. Sixth Scents is very rare in this medium playing multiple roles on all levels with multiple fragrance tentacles. My journey has been very exciting and rewarding and I am still learning each and every day!
What is your take on how the industry has changed from when you first entered to today? The fragrance industry has changed in so many ways on so many different
levels over the past twenty-five years.
MB: Behind the closed Perfumery doors in the early 80’s, the fragrance industry was an exclusive industry which was untouchable. If one wanted to contact an industry person, you would have research names– a very difficult task without a contact list. One would then write a letter through the distributor and pray it would be forwarded. If you were lucky, you might receive a polite reply, via mail from a PR person thanking you for your interest. It was commonplace to see a Grandmother, Daughter and Grandchild all wearing the same scent. Major retailers had incredible incentives such as complimentary gift sets and miniatures of all sizes to entice the consumer. Men could also receive as a GWP or PWP, amazing extras such as bags, umbrellas, beach towels, full sized lotions or skin toners.
All of that has changed considerably. Today, samples are being sold in some cases. Luxury items such as soaps, dusting powders and body oils have gone the way of the Dodo Bird. Flanker brands and many celebrity scents now compete with Niche and Designer brands. The Pharmacies, chain perfumeries and grey markets are taking up the Lion’s share of sales in some countries.
Can you explain what the "grey market" in fragrance means?
MB: Ah, well, it can mean a number of things. If opened, some fragrances do have a shelf life. Some companies may sell excess stock to third party distributors which can end up on the wagons in your local malls or inexpensive perfumeries in strip malls.
"Fragrance can pull on our heart strings and transport us to immediate pleasure or pain" -Marian Bendeth
Can you explain the different kinds of scents on the market? Is one style better than another?
MB: First, I have to clarify, that dating (“it smells like my Grandmother) critiquing or pigeonholing a scent based on its launch date or name can be a very narrowing experience thereby cutting off the customer’s exposure to some very clever scents.
That said there are: Mass scents – those that appeal to the masses with a lesser-expensive price point. Then, we have Masstige which is one step up and a cross between the next category, Prestige which includes fragrances from Designers Joaillerie and Accessory brands. Then comes the two niches…one outer, for example, established houses such as Penhaligon’s, Fresh, L’Artisan Jo Malone and Creed. Then, there is the inner-Niche –
a burgeoning market of scents put out by well-known and completely unknown companies. This latter market is now competing with the Masstige brands in releases. We also have the vintage, limited edition, Natural and Organic markets as well. The choices are unlimited.
What is important to me is my customer and how a fragrance reacts and affects them. Be it Mass or Inner Niche, Prestige or a lesser-priced line, the very scent one thinks they abhor might actually smell spectacular on their skin but they will never know due to prior stereotyping. Any true fragrance aficionado should be as open to all possibilities and experiment and research all scents as much as possible.
I am sure that you have noticed that ever few years, we see a certain note in some of the new releases; this year it is Oud. A few years ago it was Vanilla, and then it was melon and so on. What do you think of that? What do you think the next new “trendy” note will be that we may be seeing in fragrances?
MB: The word “trends or trendy” are great! For five minutes….because there will always be a new trend to take its place. If Oud fascinates you, experience as many as possible from different companies. I liken this to listening to different interpretations of classical music from different arrangers. Same music, different interpretation.
What is your advice to people that wish to be a true part of the fragrance industry?
MB: As I stated earlier, the impact of groups such as
Sniffapalooza has really opened the doors and invited a
lovely dialogue with industry professionals but, the industry
is not like “American Idol” and the doors are still firmly
closed to outsiders to a great extent. There are
multiple industries within the fragrance industry.
Each has a different purpose and target. In terms
of Perfumery, there are Perfumers, then Perfumers,
then Perfumers and then Master Perfumers. Each
performs a different function of style of Perfumery,
some Creative, Technical, Personal care, Fine
Fragrance, Evaluative etc. Each person has spent
many years honing their skills.
There are also areas which focus on flaconnage, raw
materials, labels and packaging, processing, harvesting,
distributing, sales; marketing…the list goes on and on.
We stretch across the globe and each industry plays a
major role in the creation and production of a scent.
Taking courses, reading, networking, investing in blends can
only assist your learning journey. I am only aware of a rare few who have hopped over from passion to joining the industry. In order to be a Perfumer, one has to be part Scientist, part intuitive artiste, part chemist, part poet and part philosopher to compete in an already saturated market. I do want to add, taking a three day/week course in Perfumery does not make one a Perfumer but it certainly enlightens one’s knowledge.
What do you think of the impact of bloggers, Twitters and fragrance websites have had on the industry, if any?
MB: There have been many significantly positive and conversely negative ramifications for the fragrance industry and the net.
Please let me preface this by stating that fragrance devotees on the internet, bloggers, websites, critics and Twitterers are akin to people on a densely populated small island, all in varying degrees of passion for our industry and what it has to offer. The majority of bloggers and those who post appear genuinely fascinated by perfumes and their history. The internet has been a fabulous vehicle to unite lovers of the art.
Some follow the works of Perfumers like groupies at a Rock Concert! Groups such as Sniffapalooza, Basenotes and a few others have opened the doors to these creative people for a one-on-one chat which is amazing and revolutionary. Perfumers and Marketers can glean all kinds of information from this, possibly affecting the way they develop and market scents.
This island, the internet, lies off the real mainland (which is mainstream retailers) around the world. These consumers may not be as fascinated or passionate as that of their neighbours. They still make up the bulk of spending dollars globally though.
The positive contributions have come from individuals and particular websites that seek out the truth in perfumery, the industry and the story behind certain scents. Some fragrance bloggers and websites do a better job than some media journalists because their passion is evident but, I do hold each and every critic to the standards of an Evaluator or qualified Journalist if they plan to publish publicly. There is a difference between a review and a critique. One’s
opinion is just that, one opinion and yes, those who critique are Experts of their own likes and dislikes alone. Everyone is entitled to express their own opinion but it appears some may be seeking other kinds of attention.
When I view individuals who were once bloggers, now, changing their titles to self-appointed ones such as: Journalist, Perfume Expert or Perfumer without the credentials – this worries me. Some have referred to me as a "Nose" which is untrue. I have never claimed to be a Perfumer although I do consult with them and have the greatest respect for those who have earned that right..
It is my personal opinion that at times, I am witnessing a wild horse race of who can release names of un-launched perfumes first. I also wince when I witness some slam or berate some scents, Perfumers or others. Attaining valuable knowledge shouldn’t be reflected through fame by association where one can hobnob with someone in the industry or make the purchase of multiple fragrances a competition. Expressing one's opinion should be justified and discussed.
Isn't this supposed to be about the love of fragrance? Sharing knowledge in a dignified manner and respecting one another in any medium can only reflect our shared passion. Sometimes, it is good to agree to disagree.
The impact of fragrance in one’s life has richer and deeper meaning because it
defines our sense of self, ingrains its very oils and is steeped in our memories.
Being new, vintage, hot or not for me, has zero bearing on perfume “coolness”.
Knowing what to wear and how to wear it in the right environment is hot. Being
near someone who smells as good as they look or makes us feel – those
enigmatic emotions are what this industry should be predicated on. I work
with blinders on with my work as this is the force that takes my breath away
each time I work with a scent that I didn’t think could work well and on occasion,
I have been proven very wrong indeed.
These personal attacks saddens me no end. When one witnesses the industry
side, the literal hundreds of trials and errors, marketing meetings, discussions
with flaconnage and glass makers, months and sometimes years of perfecting a
scent involving literally thousands of people - only to have it assassinated before
given a chance. It also happens in stores as well. If a salesperson dislikes a new
scent, they can also impact its sale without giving it a fair chance. If someone
decides to drop a scent from the highest skyscraper, don’t walk around the shards
of glass in fear. Pick up your untouched bottle and adjudicate for yourself.
The net can be a harvester of great information if researched and written with
authenticity and professionalism or become the harbinger of negativity for
the industry through unsubstantiated misinformation. One has to become
discerning.
"Fragrance is your walking Biography".- Marian Bendeth
Other gray market can be literally watered-down scents – scents that were decanted and refilled with who-knows-what? Many end up on the net for sale too. As the price-points are lower, this can appear very desirable to those on a budget. But buyers beware! There is usually a no-return policy and some scents have literally gone off or were stored in hot warehouses for years at a time.
Have fun smelling Perfumer's Christophe Laudamiel's wrist
Having fun "sniffing" with Jean Claude Ellena
A Visit with Linda Pilkington
Ormonde Jayne Perfumery
After a weeklong heat wave, London weather invariably regressed to its charmingly unpredictable nature by the time of our visit. Early Tuesday morning treated us to glorious skies of blue and happy sunshine. By lunchtime, the heavy clouds told us the rain was not just a passing summery drizzle, but it was too late: The Sniffapalooza program was already in full swing and we were running on a tight schedule. No way to rectify the early morning mistake of open shoes and airy clothes. We moved from Miller Harris’ flagship store in Mayfair towards Old Bond street through the ever worsening weather with our small group, huddled under our umbrellas to protect hair and clothes, but with absolutely no way to protect our soaking wet, besandalled feet. Succumbing to laughter with every wrong turn we took through the blanket of rain and alternating between grumbles, quiet ‘eewws’ and giddy giggles as though we were on a school trip, we reached the protection of our next destination: Ormonde Jayne Perfumery.
Ask any Sniffapalooza London traveler what their highlight of the trip was and chances are the answer you’re going to get is Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie in Harrods. I lost count of the times I heard a fellow traveler wistfully saying “I could spend days there!”. If you are a perfume lover, Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie can be likened to Mecca: It has to be visited at least once in your lifetime!
After a delightful presentation and hand & arm massages at Jo Malone’s, we walked the short distance to Harrods and took the elevator all the way to the top. Labyrinthine as Harrods might be, I’ll give credit to our collective perfume antennae and say we found Dove’s treasure trove instantly. Once inside, it was hard not to get giddy: the small space positively glistens with the most magnificent extrait de parfum presentations - little extraordinary works of art both in terms of content and appearance that shine like precious diamonds under the light of the chandeliers. Dark lacquered walls, mirrors, a niche with colorful pillows and a most sumptuously plum-colored carpet make one feel as though they are in the privacy of a boudoir with the extravagance of a harem. Familiar shapes, like Caron’s glorious fountains, Nina Ricci’s complete collection of extraits and MDCI’S precious bust stoppers share the space equally with never-seen-before wonders, exotic flacons often bearing no name, exciting the fantasy with their shape and waiting, waiting to be discovered and loved. The abundance of scents that are there to freely play with and explore could keep one busy for days, however most of the Haute Parfumerie’s treasures are behind lock and key, some tantalizingly behind glass, while others securely hidden away.
Still buzzing from the lovely presentation at Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie and the thrill of our exclusive purchases, we moved across the street on Brompton Road and entered a very different world of perfumes indeed. Al Qurashi was founded by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi, perfumer to Saudi kings and queens. Today the company is still family-owned and the tradition set by Abdul Samad Al Qurashi is continued by specially chosen blenders who continue his vision. Considering my recent experience at the Arabian Oud Shop in Paris was a minefield of both sensory and social insults, I’ll admit to entering Al Qurashi with some trepidation, my spirits only buoyed by Roja Dove’s earlier promise that we were going to love it. In fact, my reservations dropped the moment we stepped in the shop, seeing as unlike the Arabian Oud Shop, my nose-hairs were not singed upon entrance and the staff was delightfully welcoming and warm.
Gathered round a glass top table, we followed presentations on aoudh oils and got to experience the different grades of maturity as we appreciatively explored 1 year old, 3 year old, 8 year old, 15 year old, 30, 80 year old and finally, the majestic 100 year old aoudh oil. During the presentation, Roja Dove popped in from across the street, and once we had finished smelling the oils, he proceeded to give us yet another beautiful presentation on aoudh itself as well as Arabian perfume customs.
The Ormonde Jayne boutique is located in one of the most favorable locations in London: Not only is it right off
Bond Street – one of the most prestigious shopping streets one can find in the bustling metropolis, with boutiques
like Hermès and Chanel gracefully lining its length- it is also housed in the gorgeous Royal Arcade, which is small yet
packed with exclusive shops. Its offerings range from the most fabulous chocolatier (Charbonnel et Walker), to high quality
antiques, silverware and bespoke shoes. The Ormonde Jayne boutique itself can be found on number 12 of the Royal Arcade.
Sleek, modern and sophisticated, the interior somehow manages to be cozy too – possibly due to its mignon size. Inside,
Linda Pilkington was waiting for us, the huge smile on her face as inviting as though we were old friends. How can one not
feel comfortable? We were served champagne and truffles from the aforementioned Charbonnel et Walker (let me tell you,
I’ve never had a better truffle in my whole life, this was deliciousness itself) as introductions were made and our group settled in.
Linda Pilkington is an exuberant, petite, youthful blonde with excitingly intelligent eyes. She can be likened to a flame: she’s
tiny, but boy can she start a blazing fire! Her excitement about perfumery is incredibly contagious – just a few minutes into
our conversation we had forgotten all about the beastly weather and we were all gaily spraying perfume while she passionately
talked to us about each of them. Movingly (very much so might I add) her demeanor created an extraordinarily comfortable
environment: it was obvious that this wonder woman derived pleasure from our excited play. There was no uncomfortable feeling
of having to be extra careful with the hefty bottles – they were being passed around excitedly and sprayed with abandon, all
the while encouraged by Linda herself. The term ‘wonder woman’ is not just thrown out there thoughtlessly either. Listening
to her impassioned presentation, it was easy to understand that this now world-known luxury perfume brand is not actually a
machine that rakes in the cash. Quite the opposite in fact: it is a labor of love, riddled with difficulties and struggle.
But the woman behind it does it all with a smile, because she loves it and is devoted to it.
Time seemed to fly as Linda spoke to us about her inspirations, greatly influenced by her travels which she touched upon with great
passion: exotic locales like Morocco, Laos, Thailand and Japan all serve as inspiration behind her marvelous creations. The basmati rice accent in her Champaca (my favorite of the line) is her comfort note, the smell she wants to return to after a long, hard day. The beautiful (handmade) packaging of all her products in turn, is directly inspired by the Japanese Bento box (a lunch box which can range from those that are very simple to the extremely intricate, elevating it to a status symbol). I’d always loved the line’s packaging, but never made the connection. Suddenly, the moment it was explained, I saw it, clear as day. When the time came to smell Iris Noir, she went on to explain that most iris perfumes smell powdery because orris is purchased as powder and has to be made into butter by the perfumer with the result that it very much retains its powdery scent. However, Linda herself does not like powdery scents (!) so Iris Noir had to be an iris scent like no other. To this end she employed a lot of musk, vanilla and patchouli to ‘mask’ the powdery nature of iris. The result is a glorious, feminine oriental which (I got the impression) is one of her favorites. We were introduced to the line’s newest perfume - Zizan- last and I have to tell you that it made a huge impression on our group, creating much excitement all around. Employing three types of vetiver, Zizan smells sharp and bracing on the blotter but smells entirely different on skin. To this extent, it can most certainly serve as an extremely convincing argument against those who believe that the relation between skin chemistry and perfume is a myth! Five people in our group tried it on their skin and I can attest to the fact that it smelled extremely different on each and every one of them!
Finally as our visit was coming to an end, I took the chance to ask Linda a question to present here on Fragrance Bouquet. The burning question in my mind was how a professional nose deals with the current environment in perfumery, difficult and restrictive as it has come to be:
Fragrance Bouquet: “What is your stand on the current situation with the restrictions in perfumery?”
The answer came swift and as always with this amazing woman, incredibly passionate:
Linda Pilkington: “Oh I don’t CARE!!! I do what I want with my perfumes. If you don’t like it, or if it makes you sneeze, don’t buy it!”
To which Fragrance Bouquet can only add: “YOU GO GIRL!”
I’m sure you’ll join me in my wish that more professional noses would take a similar stand and join arms in an effort to prevent the loss of gorgeous ingredients that enrich our perfumes. What we consumers can do it turn, is support brands like Ormonde Jayne, who keep using what they (and we!) please. I already loved this amazing line of perfumes before my trip to London – but now I am an even bigger fan, having met the amazing woman behind it. Leaving her shop I felt compelled to give her a hug for being who she is and doing what she does. She graciously returned it – hopefully without thinking I was mad! I hope you too feel a little bit like having come to know her after this piece.
Images: Figures huddled under the umbrella – Flickr by PetitPoulailler, The Royal Arcade London – www.londontown.com, images of Ormonde Jayne packaging and Linda Pilkington via the Ormonde Jayne website. Extra images from Editor.
Just as we were warming up exploring, Roja Dove appeared: Tanned, deliciously dressed in a swirl of brightly colored silk and studded with shining jewels, he looked like he’d just returned from a month’s luxuriant yachting in Greece or alternatively (and anachronistically) partying it up in Miami at the Versace villa with Gianni. A minute in his speech however, it was obvious that the impressive looking man is quintessentially British and proud of it too. I was unglamorously tired (fourth day in London after an exhausting week in Paris) and felt like I was about to collapse, yet it was impossible to think about pain and tiredness as Roja regaled us with extraordinary tales from his life in the perfume business, the House of Guerlain and how it used to operate, Caron and its mistress and the magic of scent. Although I wouldn’t dare to attempt repeat his beautiful stories for they would no doubt lose their charm without the man’s humor and personal memory as their driving force, I would like to share a few interesting facts here. Mr. Dove’s first love in perfumery was Guerlain – an infatuation which turned into a decades-long love affair when he was hired by the venerable house.
He shared with us a feeling we all agree upon: that Guerlain has changed radically ever since it left the hands of the family. This is not news. What however did move me, as I am sure will move you, is the fact that Guerlain barely made money when it was still family owned. The concern for quality, the sourcing for only the very best of ingredients and the extraordinarily beautiful, unique presentations, meant that Guerlain was a labor of love – a family affair that continued operating without really making profits in order to honor its tradition and the name. (I could not help but draw a parallel between this story and the words of Linda Pilkington the previous day, who also admitted to pressing on, doing what she loves for the love of it, despite little or no profits) Secondly, I would like to share that the Haute Parfumerie’s policy of keeping most of their stock locked behind glass is not done in a pretentious, elitist fashion, but stems from Roja’s own memory of what love for perfume once was. Roja effortlessly transported us to the past with eloquent tales of his youth, when to love perfume meant braving the threshold of an ultra-chic perfumery and asking to be presented with that which you craved.
Being granted the precious flacon by an immaculate sales associate was part of the experience and finally holding it in your hands sent an extra shiver of appreciation through your body. The perfume ‘wall’ of most modern perfumeries makes perfume itself lose all its charm in his eyes. Although I’ll have to admit to much preferring being able to explore and play at will when in a perfume store (preferably without someone hovering over me!) I do understand what he means about the charm of living out the whole experience when out to buy a luxury good like perfume. And even though I’ll always enjoy exploring by myself when buying perfume, I do admire the fact that he dared re-created the perfume experience as it had been in his formative years.
The presentation continued with rounds of appreciative sniffing, as we were passed various different perfumes to smell on blotters, always accompanied with a delightful story. A highlight, surely, was Baccarat’s Les Larmes Sacrées de Thebes (The Sacred Tears of Thebes), a marvelous balsamic, woody, incense laden perfume in one of the most extraordinary Baccarat presentations. Having bought all (or nearly all) of the stock, this jewel of a perfume is now only available at the Haute Parfumerie. It is a must-sniff for all serious resin & incense lovers, however the price is rather prohibitive so be prepared to have your heart broken.
We proceeded to smell Dove’s Trilogy of scents (Enslaved, Unspoken & Scandal) which were absolutely beautiful. Just as I was thinking ‘this is it, it cannot possibly get any better than this’ we were presented Dove’s semibespoke line of fragrances. Semibespoke is a term Roja and his team use for a line of very special fragrances that are available in very limited quantities – 50 bottles of each to be precise. The high price and exclusivity of the scents means that it is unlikely you shall ever come across someone wearing your scent, hence the term semibespoke. These fragrances bear no name but are simply identified by numbers. They are masterpieces. How can that be you ask, is there no dud in between? No, no dud, no mediocrity, not even one that’s simply just ‘good’ instead of perfection personified. They are truly amazing. A lover of musks, my heart was captured by three: Number Seven, Number Nine and Number Eleven. Of the three, Number Nine was my favorite – the most divine nectar of soft flowers and Tonkin musk, very much in the spirit of vintage Le Dix. The other two focused on two different animalic notes, one being unabashedly loaded with civet and smelling sinfully dangerous, while the other on castoreum, which forms the anchoring base of the leathery chypre structure, bringing to mind the great lady Cabochard. It was a day of rapture.
Images: Harrods department store, Roja Dove via rojadove.com and Baccarat’s Les Larmes Sacrées de Thebes . Additional images supplied by Editor.
We then followed a presentation on rose perfumes. We were first presented First Grade and Second Grade Rose. The first grade is the premium, the one from the first processing of the fresh petals, while the second one is derived from the already used petals, processed for a second time. You can guess which one is more precious and expensive! They were both beautiful, but the difference was stunning.
We were then passed several different varieties: Swiss Rose, Taif Rose, Instanbuli rose, May Rose, Bulgarian, as well as several different blends of rose with oudh and other, non-disclosed ingredients, referred to secretively as 'exotic flowers', a term even the lady giving the presentation had to giggle about. I am not a pure rose kind of girl at all, but to my surprise, I found one that mystified and excited me. Eastern Rose (a variety which I unfortunately cannot recal which city it stems from), was a marvel that managed to seduce even me. This is a pure rose oil that actually smells fruity and sublimely feminine. I would be happy to wear this on its own, as it simply needs no further ornamentation.
As the official presentations ended and most of our group started to wander in the shop, sniffing the various blends and deciding what to buy to bring back home, I requested that Diane give one last presentation to us, a presentation of musks, for those that were interested. She happily complied, and brought another group of large beautiful jars to the table for those of us remaining, still transfixed by all the beauty we had encountered. Beautiful natural vegetable musks were presented to us, others pungent while others soft and innocent. They were all vegetable musks, some pure, while others blended with oudh and/or flowers. There's still a story lurking in here, but well, that's a story for another day. I promised you an article on natural musks soon. I haven't forgotten. It will be coming after my vacation, along with stories of many more perfumes, the promise of which always lingers in my mind...
With kind thanks to Karim, who gave his permission to include the images used in this article. (www.asqgrp.com)
Divina Alexiou is a Social Psychology student. She has built a Foundation which works to improve international student rights and created the annual Cultural Festival of Leiden, one of the city’s biggest events. She dreams of taking the skills she has learned from the micro to the macro-level, in order to influence international policy with regards to intercultural relations. When not busy trying to kick down the walls that separate people with different cultural identities, she lives, breathes and interprets perfume. Having loved and collected perfume since the age of 6, she finally created www.fragrancebouquet.blogspot.com three years ago as an outlet for this great passion, in order to share her love and delight with the magical world of scent with people from around the globe.
Sniffapalooza Magazine welcomes back, Divina Alexiou.
Mr. Dove then proceeded to demonstrate how one can be perfumed with the smoke of aoudh, using a tall silver pot-like instrument with burning aoudh chips in its core. He explained that this is placed under the clothing and that the perfuming is completed once the smoke starts coming out of the collar. Finally, we discussed the differences between western and Arabian perfumery and how western (mostly French) perfumery actually ended up influencing Arabian perfumery. Roja explained to us that Arabian men and women used to (and still in fact prefer) to create their own perfumes by way of layering different oils on skin to create their own unique sillage. The concept of a ready-made blend was foreign to them up until the latter half of the 20th century when they were exposed to French perfumery. At that point, Arabian perfumers began experimenting more with complex blends in order to create perfumes that smelled similar to popular western classics, yet were closer to the Arabian sensibilities. Before leaving, Roja was kind enough to demonstrate how Arabian men and women layer oils on their skin, by tapping an oil on their skin, blotting and blending with the fabric of their flowing garments and then continuing with the next oil and then the next, until the desired effect is achieved. Beautiful and extremely exciting, to learn about a culture in which perfume is so interweaved in daily life that everyone dares to blend their own perfume!
New Fragrance For Men
The Frapin family has maintained a tradition of excellence since it was established in the region of Château de Fontpinot in the heart of Grande Champagne in 1270. Its cognacs and fragrances are the symbol of luxury and distinctive Frenchculture.
The fragrances of P. Frapin & Cie, created bySublime Atelier, are the expression of genuine luxury. Uniqueness, exclusivity, beauty. The latest fragrance, L’Humaniste, was created for men who wish to embody the values of tomorrow. Notes: Citrus, spices Citrus, bergamot, cardamom, bay, berry, black pepper, Heart notes, juniper, nutmeg, thyme, peony, Heart notes, Gin, oakmoss, tonka bean. Fragrance expert Sidonie Lancesseur (Robertet) has given life to a fragrance that symbolizes modern humanism. An authentic fragrance with simple, essential notes of Gin, juniper, citrus, bergamot, thyme, tonka bean.
The Frapin family has maintained a tradition of excellence since it was established in the region of Château de Fontpinot in the heart of Grande Champagne in 1270. Its cognacs and fragrances are the symbol of luxury and distinctive French culture.
François Rabelais (c.1495-1553) was a Benedictine monk, a physician, and a humanist scholar illustratrating the Renaissance spirit in France. His significant folk epic Gargantua and Pantagruel, attacked clerical education and monastic orders and expressed an appreciation for secular learning and a confidence in human nature. Expressing his aversion to medieval asceticism, he attacked monasticism as life-denying and regarded worldly pleasure as a legitimate need and aim of human nature. As a man whose life spans the transition between the Medieval (Middle) Ages and the Renaissance, Rabelais, as most scholars of the time period, had to cope with a huge shift in thoughts and ideals.
Rabelais
Suzanne Keller is the owner of Eiderdown Press and has her own fragrance blog called Suzanne’s Perfume Journal. Eiderdown Press is publisher of books along with the publication of Free Spirits, a coffee-table book celebrating the community of artists and other creative types in Suzanne Keller's community. Her Top 10 Favorite Fragrances: Amouage Jubilation 25, Robert Piquet Fracas, Hermes 24 Faubourg, Caron Tabac Blonde, Chanel Coromandel, Chanel No. 22, Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu, and Serge Lutens Chergui. Eiderdown Press and Suzanne’s Perfume Journal We welcome Suzanne back as a contributor.
Yves Rocher releasing new fragrance
Tendre Jasmin
Tendre Jasmin, the new perfume from the Secrets d’Essences collection Tendre Jasmin, the fourth
perfume in the Secrets d’Essences collection, is a fresh and luminous floral, the essence of femininity.
Marrying passion and refinement, softness and tenacity, force and fragility, jasmine loves contradictions.
Jasmine, smell it once and be captivated forever. The plant is lively and temperamental. Able to
brood and be elated, sometimes timid, sometimes conquering, jasmine remains, always, unpredictable.
From the floral olfactive family, the “petal” jasmine, picked at the earliest light, in faraway India, still
seeped with nocturnal dew, opens the dance. A few drops of mandarin and lemon sustain its charming
innocence. The heart rests on the most beautiful of jasmines, the sumptuous grandiflorum.
To highlight its extreme femininity, orange blossom absolute conveys its charm and resolution.
Finally, the end note combines Madurai jasmine absolute from the Tamil Nadu with the honeyed almost
erotic mimosa absolute.
There are diverse varieties of jasmine, each with its own temperament. Originating from India for the most part, some are light others rounder and
richer. It is the talent of the perfumer that knows how to play with jasmine’s different facets, to oppose them, to harmonize them and to elevate
them to another level. Encompassing all theses jasmines into one, Tendre Jasmin, an eau de parfum composed by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier from Firmenich. One of the most prolific perfumers of his generation, he created a perfume that is contemporary, very feminine, natural and addictive, by playing with jasmine’s various facets.
Secrets d’Essences is a collection of perfumes celebrating the rarest natural essences. After Voile d’Ambre, Rose Absolute and Iris Noir, Yves Rocher launches Tendre Jasmin, a perfume that is innocently sexy by nature. A perfume that reveals jasmine’s diversefacets to unveil its sensuality. Tendre Jasmin Eau de Parfum. 50 ml spray, $58
The Tendre Jasmin eau de parfum, shower gel and body lotion will be available as of October 2009 via the website: www.YvesRocherUSA.com or by catalogue at 1-800-321-3434
Yves Rocher introduces new collections "Les Plaisirs Nature"
The plant world is bursting with flavors, colors and smells. It’s an infinite source of inspiration and pleasure for all the senses.
True to its commitment, Yves Rocher, The Creator of Botanical Beauty, has picked the best fruits and plants, from the best
sources, and selected the best varieties to create its mouthwatering Les Plaisirs Nature collections: Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
labeled AOC Provence, organically grown Bourbon Vanilla, Malaysian Coconut, Wild Blackberry, Yellow Peach and
Organic Raspberry and Oats. See full collection at http://www.yvesrocherusa.com/control/fragrances/new-fragrances
Coming Soon...Fragrant Memories: Introducing Bare Skin
the first fragrance from Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries
(CEO Bare Escentuals & Bare Minerals)
Inspired by entrepreneurial powerhouse Leslie Blodgett’s dynamic life, Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries is a limited edition fragrance collection, created exclusively for Sephora, that revisit and evoke pivotal moments in Leslie’s life. Having kept journals since she was a young girl, Leslie has captured the essence of every trip she has taken through the pages of her journals. Today, these pages have been brought to life through scent, enabling Leslie’s ardent fans to walk a fragrant mile in her shoes. Leslie Blodgett, is CEO of Bare Escentuals and the The BareMinerals® fame. Bare Skin, the first scent in the series, is reminiscent of an experience during a trip to Mexico, where Leslie cart-wheeled fancy-free down a sunny beach while emanating true, unbridled joy. “When I have an experience, I like to have a scent behind it. Bare Skin, which is what Mexico reminds me of, is the way you feel when the sun is beating down on you during the day, but then you go out at night and you’re still sizzling from the warmth of the day which mingles with the night air and the music.” “Glowing, sun-kissed skin has the power to turn heads. I wanted to recreate that attractive force with notes that draw you in: creamy sensuality, caressing florals and uninhibited musk,” says Stephen Nilsen, the celebrated perfumer who helped concoct Bare Skin. “With Bare Skin, you will find yourself basking in the sun, with your feet in the sand, after one spritz.”
With emotional undertones throughout, the scent takes you from day to night with top notes of Black Pepper, Freesia and Anise that evoke the morning breeze coming through the window and the anticipation of the day ahead. The heart notes of Iris, Vanilla Orchid, Plumeria and Patchouli conjure walking to the beach and being on hot, hot sand. While the dry down notes of Sandalwood, Labdanum and Musk tell of the soft, sexy chatter between couples and the music that surrounds.
The Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries’ first scent Bare Skin will preview to Sephora Beauty Insiders in October with general availability in November 2009 in all Sephora stores, as well as by calling 1-877-SEPHORA or by logging on to Sephora.com. The next journey will begin in Spring 2010. About Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries: Created in 2009 in San Francisco, Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries is a collection of limited edition fragrances made especially for Leslie’s Angels and available exclusively at Sephora.
Bare Skin Eau de Parfum 1.7oz ($55): Bare Skin Perfumed Body Cream ($30): To perfectly compliment the fragrance, a luxurious body cream has been created.
Frapin L’Humaniste is $130 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum. Available at Luckyscent in the US, Les Senteurs in the UK or First in Fragrance in Germany.
Special thank you to the distributor LOIC LE GUEN of Différentes Latitudes - Intl Luxury Trader
By Michelyn Camen
Sniffapalooza Magazine
“Arabian Nights”
PURE OUD by Kilian
Periods and continents diverge to give birth to this new oriental collection. The “Arabian Nights” collection will be composed of 5 perfumes and 5 olfactive harmonies, all built around essential oils with strong symbolic values from the East: oud, rose, incense, amber and musk. PURE OUD is the first stopover on this olfactive trip. Oud
Oud is an extremely rare and precious oil found in agarwood, the resinous heartwood of the aquilaria tree from southeast Asia. The oil itself is dark in coloration and has a complex scent, being warm and woody, yet strongly animalistic at the same time. In many Middle Eastern countries, oud is believed to be worth more than its weight in gold. To echo this belief, the Kilian bottle has a gold plaque engraved with the name of the perfume and the box is decorated with a gold plate on the top. PURE OUD by Kilian was not composed as a literal translation of the oud oil in its purest form. Instead, it was composed as a contemporary interpretation of oud, for those who appreciate and value the richness of the fragrance note itself.
In order to create this interpretation, Calice Becker has layered the oud’s oil with other essential oils such as cypriol oil, gaiac wood oil, copahu balm and saffron oil. In doing so, PURE OUD by Kilian takes on a gold coloration which seems only fitting given the symbolism ofgold throughout the scents theme. The scent remains warm and woody yet evokes a sense of modernityand elegance. Only available in the 1.7oz spray, PURE OUD by Kilian is an invitation to discover the olfactive charm of the Middle East.
Price: $ 395 50ml PURE OUD spray . Available at: Paris Gallery Dubai I Abu Dhabi / Le Bon Marché Paris / Harvey Nichols Londres
Bergdorf Goodman New York / Saks Fifth Avenue Beverly Hills I Costa Mesa I Houston I Las Vegas I San Francisco
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine
A Door to Another World
Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle
Fragrance Review by Suzanne Keller
One of my favorite children’s books is the C.S. Lewis classic, The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe. The story centers around the adventures that four school-age siblings have in the mysterious world of Narnia, a land where it is always winter (but never Christmas), its perpetual freeze being the curse of its ruler, the self-appointed Queen of Narnia, the White Witch. Narnia is a bit like one of those strange new worlds in Star Trek: time unfolds differently than it does in the real world, and getting there is somewhat akin to entering a wormhole. The children discover Narnia by accident one rainy day when, forced to play inside, they begin exploring the rambling, old house of the professor they’ve come to live with for a time in the countryside away from London. Their parents have sent them to the professor’s country house to protect them from the air raids—the story takes place during World War II—and so they begin exploring the house and soon come upon a room that is empty except for a wardrobe. The older kids believe there is nothing of interest in the room, so they leave; however, the youngest, Lucy, stays behind and opens the doors of the wardrobe, slipping inside when she discovers it contains several fur coats (“there was nothing Lucy liked so much as the smell and feel of fur”). The front of the wardrobe contains only coats and mothballs, but where Lucy expects to meet the wardrobe’s back panel, she instead stumbles into
a snowy wood, with a lamp-post at its center, and a path upon which all manner of critters will eventually tread: a brave faun, a horrid wolf, a couple of kindly helpful beavers, and the White Witch herself, on her sleigh pulled by albino reindeer.
An Eclispe of Beauty Over Darkness
Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums UNE ROSE
Fragrance Review by Suzanne Keller
Imagine beauty so pointed that, from the moment you first behold it, you begin to fear for its doom.
Beauty so exquisite, the crueler fates of the world will surely conspire to destroy it, because such
an act is like stealing the sun from the sky. And as its beholder, you are caught in the crosshairs
between rapt awe and a vague but nagging fear—and so, experience a tenderness that is poignant
in the truest, dictionary-sense of the word: keenly distressing to the feelings; affecting or moving the emotions.
Imagine a concentration of sun-drenched, honeyed nectar balanced on one tantalizingly slender stem:
the one flower that has all the bees in the garden buzzing over it, and every passerby wanting to pluck
it for his own, to place in a vase upon his shelf. If you can hold in your mind just such an image of singular,
silky beauty—so lithe and poised for living, yet shadowed by these darker forces—then you have an
idea of what it is like to experience Une Rose by Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums.
Une Rose can be purchased from the Frederic Malle website or from Barneys.com, where a 50 ml. bottle is $175.
Image is of the late actress Sharon Tate photographer unknown. Additional images from Editor. Gypsy Carnival Rose by Jim Bass
A Turkish rose scent accentuated with notes of geranium and “dregs of wine,” Une Rose is, to me, even more roselike than roses: it is rose in its most exalted state, hypnotically enchanting. Perfumer Edouard Fléchier married the aforementioned notes with “a truffle accord laced with woody and animal notes” which is intended, according to the Frederic Malle website, to provide a carnal element to the fragrance; to evoke “the intoxicating, earthy aroma of a garden rose pulled from the ground with its roots.” My nose, I’m afraid, doesn’t parse out the notes in such a literal way: I can’t say that I detect the peatiness of earth, or the meatiness of mushrooms that others smell in this scent. But what I do smell is a lingering darkness, and juxtaposed with the honeyed, fruitiness of the rose, it brings a sense of melancholy to the perfume—a foreshadow of death that only serves to intensify the vividness of the bloom. Une Rose is a reminder that beauty, in any form, shape and size—whether as big as an ocean or as small as a rosebud—eclipses death. It is the thing that lives on.
Erwin Creed
I’ve been thinking about Narnia lately, as it's wintry here, and I’ve been wearing Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle on my walks through the woods and fields. The strange opening of this scent is like stepping into that fabled wardrobe—a chilly blast of camphor and wintergreen that might intimidate the perfume-newcomer who hasn’t done much exploring in the land of niche, though not likely those who are reading here. Even so, I suspect that perfumistas who have “smelled it all” still thrill to this perfume’s icy mix of top notes, if only because it’s a potent reminder that we inhabit a world that is uniquely beautiful and often wondrously strange—a place where we are free to indulge our senses and play make-believe while still conducting ourselves as grownups.
Once I pass through Tubereuse Criminelle’s frosty opening, the perfume ushers me forth into another place entirely: a secret garden, where the snow is melting fast, as if C.S. Lewis’s great lion king, Aslan, savior of Narnia, has just strode through and, by his golden presence, turned winter into spring. What once was snow is now white flowers in early bloom, the greatest of these being tuberose—a clustered flower, unassuming in size, but so expansive and exquisite in fragrance, it stops me in my tracks. A reminder of snow never fully leaves this garden—there’s a coolness that lingers here, clinging to every petal of the flowers—and perhaps that’s why the bloom of tuberose seems so preciously surreal: for what bloom could emerge from the thick of winter and sigh its perfume so extravagantly in the still chilly air? Only the bloom borne of a perfume bottle and of the creative talents of artist Serge Lutens and his perfumer, Christopher Sheldrake.
In Tubereuse Criminelle, two men created a masterful olfactory portrait of the tuberose flower—a flower that is not only heady and sweet but which possesses a complex array of scent components, including rubber, sweat, a hint of clove-like spice, and, yes, even camphor and wintergreen. Because they portrayed it so ingeniously, because they took the care to flesh it out so fully—what they imagined into the world not just a simple soliflore perfume, but a compelling “tale” of the flower that seems destined to become a classic.
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle is part of the non-export line of Serge Lutens fragrances and, at this time, can only be purchased in Europe. I highly recommend seeking out a decant of this magnificent scent.
Bottle image of Tubereuse Criminelle is from the Serge Lutens website, www.salons-shiseido.com. Additional images supplied by editor.
I already knew a good bit about Aoudh and how it is produced from fungus-infected wood, but was mesmerized to find out exactly how labor intensive the process is, fully explaining the cost of this marvelous ingredient. From a large deep bowl on the table filled with aoudh wood, Roja produced a sufficiently large chip and showed us little holes and abrasions on it, ranging from the minute to the slightly larger, some of them deep and incredibly narrow. He then explained that every chip is worked by hand with extreme precision, for every little bit of healthy wood has to be removed so as to not compromise the quality of the prospective aoudh oil. The narrow little holes and small abrasions are the marks left on the wood after the healthy bits have been removed. My mind struggled excitedly with the realization that each and every bit of that wood was handled by someone whose eyes are so expertly accustomed to not only spot the tiny healthy bits and how deep they vein into the wood, but also someone who is both patient and skilled enough to be able to remove them! It seemed impossible, but there it was…
Mr. Dove then went on to explain how when the oil is extracted, it is not poured in containers by machinery, but by hand. And by that I do not mean hand-poured. No, the artisan will gently place his palm on the surface of the oil and will then gently rub off the oil that was picked up on the mouth of the container, letting it drip in. Again and again and again. Hundreds, thousands of times, until the container is filled. My mind was once again filled with wonderment for this age old traditional process, the patience of all the artisans involved and a silly little voice which wondered whether the oil was not contaminated by flakes of skin from the hand. A question I decided to ignore, because frankly, I do not care.
Marian Bendeth
Givaudan Master Perfumer Olivier Gillotin
How does one wear “inappropriate scents”?
MB: This is a great question! Do you want to smell like you are wearing a leather Corset in the boardroom? One has to question, if I wear this today, will it be overpowering? Does it reflect my fashion sense? My mood? Do I smell incredibly sexy and I have to go on a job interview? The intensity should speak to your sense of propriety and etiquette. Ask yourself this, would I want to be sitting and working next to me and smelling this scent all day long?
In your career, you have interviewed many famous Perfumers. What have you learned from all these fascinating and in-depth interviews?
MB: Not unlike musicians, painters or writers, each Perfumer contributes their own inimitable style to their blends. One becomes familiar with a particular accord or character. I recently interviewed fifty Perfumers for a story on Basenotes and I think one can really glean their passion and personalities through their answers.
Some adore the history of perfume and others only want to live for the now. Others look to the future. What is frustrating for most Perfumers, are the time constraints, prohibition of certain perfume materials because of IFRA standards; the lack of knowledge stemming from some Marketers who can change their minds after much laborious work has been done. They are in difficult situations but are now speaking out through the burgeoning exposure they are finally receiving through the web. Amen to that!
I also want to add that it has been my sole purpose to be the keeper of this perfume flame. Some like to say “perfume is a dream” or “perfume is luxury”. For me, Perfume is the emotion and memories that have yet to be made or yet to be relived. I am the facilitator of those memories by guiding the customer in the right direction. Finis.
Special thank you to Marian Bendeth for her utmost patience friendship and support. - RB
Linda Pilkington
Gump’s Baroque Pearl
The Birth Of A Fragrant Jewel
By Cristiane Gonçalves
Fragrance Writer - Sniffapalloza Magazine
What would be the perfect motto to inspire a fragrance creation as a new fascinating scent, powerfully magnificent as a timeless jewel? Perfumes are scented pearls, a motto that is likely to be classy and modern to produce a fragrance to wear a woman’s skin at a valuable level of elegance, femininity and sensuality, as remarkably as pearls are adorning women for centuries.
Not only indeed diamonds are a woman’s best friend, at least, not in the first fragrance release of Gump’s, the luxury retailer of San Francisco that features a pretty perfume inspired by the beauty and seduction of pearls – Baroque Pearl, a luminous floral scent with main notes of bergamot and mandarin, orange blossom and creamy sandalwood. The perfume was composed by Givaudan Master Perfumer and Vice President Olivier Gillotin in collaboration with the fragrance innovative company Through Smoke Creative, which developed the 2008 FiFi® Award Gump’s Home Fragrance collection – winner as “Interior Scent of the Year”.
About Baroque Pearl début, Marta Benson, CEO of Gump’s states “We challenged ourselves to create a fragrance for our ideal Gump’s customer: classic, confident, educated and well-travelled. It is not the sweet scent of a 20-something girl, but that of a worldly beauty.” Without a doubt, this statement encourages good taste for women to try a sniff on this lovely scent, to discover Gump’s universe and celebrate a new fragrance filled by an elegant personality, bringing the beauty of white raw materials to prompt women to discover their brilliant feminine value.
Baroque Pearls are known by their shapes in sphere, oval or ovoid formats and are valuable with their iridescent layers, capturing the vivid nacre effect, pearly and refined. Wearing Baroque Pearl fragrance is a delightful experience as opening a gem box and while encircling the neck with a marvellous pearls collar smelling a terrific scent coming from them. The fragrance brings this diffusive scent power of emanating new accords expressing how complex and simple, at the same time, is a classy modern woman. Owner of her own path, she enjoys the scent of flower petals that expresses her femininity, the freshness that evokes her naturalness, the elusive scent of woods that awakes her sensuality and strength and, above of all, a scent that evokes her as a great and admirable woman.
The Master Perfumer Olivier Gillotin demonstrates a great enthusiasm about this project and tells me further…
“Baroque pearl has been a wonderful creative experience having plenty of money to work with and having the possibility to create a very rich and sophisticated fragrance. This is a kind of project all perfumers dream of: lovely people to work with and a great concept. The idea to create the fragrance was how to recreate the "nacre" effect of the pearl and the smoothness of it. I did create a fragrance not as top/mid/base/ but more as a ball where the brightness of the fragrance gives a great trail of freshness and sensuality. It is feminine and very sophisticated. White and sophistication is based on a harmony between Australian sandalwood, vanilla, white tea and a touch of white pepper. In addition to give the "timeless" idea of the pearl are white musk with vetiver and white flower.”
Certainly, the fragrance develops in a very unconventional way, that is, each note is not opened following a linear structure among top, heart and base notes in the perfume as said by Olivier Gillotin. It opens as having a shape of a pearl with different oval and flawless facets that bring the explosion of new nuances and this is the most distinctive and beautiful feature of the fragrance: the power of gifting a woman with a new bright pearl each moment, making her touching them, rolling them on her skin as playing with their roundness, let them kissing her skin illuminating her body, amalgamating woman and pearls, two jewels in just one.
Although this composition is rather rounded in shape, the first scented phase is fresh floral that, immediately, bring to the memory a bouquet of bright white flowers, many of them with hints of white woods, mainly sandalwood and expands its magnitude uniquely clean, smooth and slightly iridescent. At this time, all imagination blooms as it would be filled just by the image of a refined woman, a real pearl, in a sumptuous place, adornating herself with her splendid pearls jewels while looking at the mirror reflection whose image shows, in an ornamental vase, lovely orange blossoms so white as brides they worn.
In this luscious atmosphere, the Baroque Pearl woman is genuinely sensual and attractive, having a brilliant and fascinating beauty and absolutely loves to wear what values the harmony of her virtues as a classic and contemporaneous woman who is marked by sophistication, culture and good tastes.
Later some waves of a creamy and muskier floral bouquet are apparent. Gradually, the scent is revealed by these scented waves in a quite good sillage, absolutely, the sensorial experience is to feel how any pearl facet makes the skin “in an olfactory manner” bright with a new accord. Always present, the dimensional character of Baroque Pearl is the sophisticated white scent having relatively weight on the fragrance quality in comparison to its retail price, suggested as $98.00 for 50 ml.
Incredibly, Baroque Pearl is a scent of woman who is naturally elegant, the scent of some wealthy lifestyle, not extravagant one, but the luxury as it must be: spontaneously simple, pleasant and desirable and, the best of all, inspires some intelligence on woman, firstly, at the choice of a white floral rich in nuances and very superior in comparison to what is found on shelves in its category. The packaging, including the keepsake box with silk cords arouses some clear interest because brings to consumer experience the opening of a box as it would be the birth of a pearl from a mollusk shell, in fact, an appealing box what strengthens the importance of an overall quality in all fragrance making details.
In reality, Baroque Pearl fragrance is like a gem to ornament women scentfully as they would be part of other gem - an exquisite Art piece perfectly desirable by its beauty and perfection. And, as contemplating beautiful pearls in Baroque Art painting pieces of Caravaggio and Johannes Vermeer which are stared deeply, touched delicately and revealed more and more by the observer’ glance, the same occurs fragrantly here. The luminous birth of a fragrant jewel from inside Gump’s.
Lisa Wilson, creative strategist and Fragrance designer from Through Smoke Creative, the company which works together to Master Perfumer Olivier Gillotin to design Gump’s Baroque Pearl; celebrates the great work for Gump’s first fragrance and exclusively adds “We are very proud of this fragrance. It was a joy to design. To give a perfumer carte blanche on price was so much fun. We challenged him to create the most exquisite scent regardless of price. We wanted him to use the most beautiful materials available and he did. Remarkably, the scent is priced competitively to the customer, so Baroque Pearl is a wonderful, affordable luxury.”
Cristiane Gonçalves has recently joined Sniffapalooza Magazine in a new collaboration for new articles/new fragrances reviews and interviews exclusive to the Magazine. Cristiane is a fragrance writer and global fragrance consultant from Brazil, specialising in Oriental Perfumery, Luxury Fine and Niche Fragrances and Brazilian Perfume Brands. She is an award winning pioneer in Brazil in Fragrance Expertise Blogging as owner, editor and writer at Perfume da Rosa Negra which won the 9th Basenotes Awards Best Blog Finalist. She also writes for the main online fragrance publications such as Sniffapalooza Magazine, PerfumeCritic and Osmoz.
Cristiane has also a broad general culture and multilinguistic background and a solid experience and expertise in Management and Human Resources, acquired in top-levels companies such as Johnson & Johnson, IBM and Unilever. She is a true passionate woman for fragrances and an excellent learner in perfumery, having reached respect and recognition by great professionals in the global perfume industry. She is internationally involved in the development of scent culture and has the gift of connecting various dimensions as literature, visual arts, music and others artistic expressions with the magnificent perfumery world and her unique writing style. She may be contacted at cris.perfumedarosanegra@gmail.com . Sniffapalooza Magazine gives a warm welcome to Cristiane Gonçalves and we look forward to this very special collaboration.
Starting with this issue, September 8, first 100 comments in Guest Book will go into a random drawing for a free bottle of fragrance.
Starting with this issue, September 8, first 100 comments in Guest Book will go into a random drawing for a free bottle of fragrance.
Starting with this issue, September 8, first 100 comments in Guest Book will go into a random drawing for a free bottle of fragrance.
Starting with this issue, September 8, first 100 comments in Guest Book will go into a random drawing for a free bottle of fragrance.
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